Saturday, December 28, 2013

Fun with the Pocket quad

I've had a lot of fun already with some of my small quads like the Ladybird and the traxsas. The fact is I kind of like them better than most of the big quadcopters since I can fly them any place any time and still have just about as much fun with them or more without breaking them or killing someone in the process. So when I saw the multiwii pocket quad at selling for only $53 USD complete here it sounded perfect. Being the geek that I am, I could reprogram or just modify some of the many params and test fly it right in my room without going to the field to test it. What could be more fun than that!! So now after about 3 days of locking myself in my room, tuning and playing with this new toy, I thought I would share what I've learned so far. The first things I needed to learn was what software was needed to program and configure it. For that I found this group very helpful. What I also found was I couldn't get the java gui to work in my Ubuntu linux system. I've had better luck configuring it from within windows 7 that I have running in virtual-box on my linux system. In windows 7 they also have a slightly better Gui for version 2.2 multiwii that seems a bit easier to use to change settings. But I found is I can't save the settings in a file from inside this version. So when I want to save the config file I run the java version that seems to work find to load and save configurations. Anther problem I found is that this Pocket Quad fails to have a bootloader installed that allows the multiwii to be re-programed over the provided USB interface on the board. So you can't install any new or modified versions of Multiwii into it without soldering some headers onto it and using an AVR programmer to load the needed bootloader so the USB interface could be used to program it. I was told that the multiwii version 2.2 should be good anyway and I can see from the GUI that I see V220 is what's installed already. So I'm hoping I won't have to reprogram it to have a shit load of fun. So before I bore you with any more of my ranting I should provide the most important information I can provide someone that wants to have fun with this toy. The PID settings. I'm not sure how much you will need to change these to get them to work on another Pocket quad but I would think only a small amount since they are so much the same with the same motors and same size and mass. So after 3 days of tinkering these are the value that I found that are the most fun for ME. I will later provide a link to my config file that can be loaded with the java gui. The values bellow also show what was set as default when I got the unit from Hobbyking. Also note that with the default values I couldn't get the Pocket quad to fly at all. It seemed like the RC stick input roll/pitch was delayed by about 200ms before any roll/pitch action was seen in the quad. factory defaults new values PID pitch/roll 3.3, .030, 23 1.2, .071, 20 rate 0.0 PID yaw 6.8, .045, 0 1.8, 0.14, 10 rate 0.0 PID LEVEL 9, .010, 100 20.0, 0.050, 100 throttle MID 0.50 0 EXPO 0 0.82 RATE 0.90 0.35 EXPO 0.65 0 TPA 0.0 0 I also found that if I turned the RC transmitter on after the quad that it seemed to some how lock in what the quad considered to be the center stick positions. If I had the transmitter already on first and re-programed the quad settings. It seems it would have the stick center positions off and would require me to set trim on the TX to get the quad to to fly OK. I had originally setup expo on the TX side but later put the expo settings on the Pocket quad configurations. I also have a second expo and rate on my TX that I have used to try more stable flight at times. The present values above are a bit on the wild side for a bit more expert pilot. I have yet to find a really easy flying set of PID setting for a beginner pilot on this device. Not that I haven't given up hope to be able to do so, some day. If someone does find some cool PID settings for this quad, slow or fast, Please send them to me and I will try them and share them with the world. I did find one other totally different set of PID for this device that I also tried that I found in the comments of a video seen here . With those settings I found that I have a bit more high speed oscillation when I try to hover, but it provides some even more wild quick maneuvering that some people might like to try. And just to see what else you can do with it here's a good pilot flying acro with it . To make it slower controlled for a less talented pilot I would try play with the settings in your TX in expo and throw range. I'm using a Turnigy 9XR with the orange TX module to drive this one. I will later try one of our Spectrum DX6i on it to see how it flys and binds to that. I'm not sure how the bind works other than when I first powered it up with the TX off I started my TX in bind mode and it seemed on the next power up it was bond for good. I've seen other people that say they needed to install some program to bind it, or plug it into a full spectrum receiver but I didn't have to do that. Not sure why. I have a second Pocket quad as a spare so later I will bind that one and see what it is exactly I have to do to make it work. Ok as I learn more and people send me more info, and ask me more questions, I'll continue this article or create new ones about my now favorite toy. I'll also post some video of myself at some point if and when I get “Paul the Toy man” to video it for me. Keep having fun. I'm sure I will. P.S. If you plan to buy one of these don't forget to get the spare parts and batteries for it. Here are the links to the added parts (batt, motors, props...) I got when I purchased this one: You will also need to make a connector adapter for the nano-tech battiers that also outperform the stock batteries that come with the pocket quad, if you plan to get them. Update: new param settings that I like so far: best flight yet with pocket quad, only works in acro mode but ok: PID 2.0, .025, 17 rc expo: 0 rc rate: .3 thr expo: .7 9XR settings channel limits: ch2 -15,100,73 ch3 -8,100,73 expo low rate: ele 50,100 ail 50,100 With these settings it flys to some degree in acro mode with just a small oscilation at about 3 per secound and responce is just a bit slow but already fun to fly at this point if the 9XR radio it fully trimed. change of pid PID 2.5, .025, 17 mades oscilation just a bit faster but still slow responce to stick movement changed of pid PID 2.0, .015, 15 still slow to respond and still osc but a bit higher freq oscilation now, can barly fly. also seems the trim is again way offset from last settings. each change of PID seems I need to adjust center trim of eli and ali. yaw trim also seems to change, now rotates clockwise from last settings. Not sure this may be a reset gyro at power up problem. I tried reboot the quad but still seems offset trim is still off. I'm also flying with 9XR in high rate 100% no expo since the rc rate .3 does the rest. PID 2.0, .015, 25 still osc at about 5 times per secound, stick responce maybe just a bit slower. no improvment PID 2.0, .04, 17 flys seems osc is a bit less, a bit faster responce? PID 1.2, .04, 17 way too slow stick responce, I can no longer fly it with these settings. PID 1.9, .05, 17 better, a bit less oscilation if any, responce time a bit better, can fly this but still want quicker responce faster rotation. PID 1.9, .1, 17 it seems slow to respond but seems more stable for unknown reason, also no noticable oscilation now. never got it fully trimed with a single battery at this setting but it seems if trimed this might be a fun setting to continue to fly in acro mode. PID 1.9, .2, 10 with this setting we now get a low freq osc like at 2 per secound like I is too high now with sample rate too slow. so bad can't really fly this setting PID 1.9, .15, 15 can now fly this but has a slow oscilation I think we still have I too high here. PID 1.9, .1, 5 very slow osc about 1 per secound like not enuf gain maybe P not big enuf with these settings, no good to fly PID 3.0, .1, 5 same but oscilation now faster at about 5 times per secound, no good to fly PID 1.5, .09, 17 one of the best yet if I could trim it this is much like the lady bird PID 1.4, .08, 17 I might try a bit smaller values for P and I but this is fun with these settings. as much or more fun than the ladybird more like the traxis. It's a handfull to fly but when you get used to this it should be a blast. responce time is now ok and maybe still just a bit of high freq osc PID 1.3, .07, 17 still not bad almost the same as above. now almost have the RX perfectly trimed but still can not get as stable as the ladybird. but remind you this is in acro mode Tried Throttle PID attenuation: was 0 now 0.2 with this setting it's like taking the big power out of lift. I can full throttle now and it's climb rate is way reduced. Also I note now that the yaw seems to intermitently drift when I throttle up hard and then just hover. yaw drift seems to move clockwise with I pulse power. will try this smaller Throttle PID attenuation: set back to zero 0 now and note no difference. so I'm no longer sure of this value. seems vertical acceleration was changed from the pid setting P to 1.3 not this change. PID 1.9, .07, 17 Didn't change like maybe the battery is dead? No lift power. will try again with another battery. even with battery change now seems PID changes are not working. like the change of throttle PID attenuation has corrupted something. Not really sure. will try a few original value sets and a few more batterys. Note: I did find when I changed fro PID 2.0, .2, 10 and back to 19.9, .08, 17 without removing the battery that flight caricteristics did change, don't have to remove battery and reset to make changes active. note2: I found I had one motor left front that seemed to have failed (spins intermitent). Not sure how long this had been failing in the data above. after replaced I set back to: one other change made I put arm on aux 1 switch due to problem with arm with ruder if I trimed too far to left. PID 1.3, .07, 18 Now with a new battery we have big throttle pulse power again. so much I'm going to try throttle P attenuator again Tried Throttle PID attenuation: was 0 now 0.2 no noticable change detected Throttle PID attenuation: was 0.2 now 0.4 Now I notice that throttle vertical acceleration is a bit reduced. still plenty of power for indoor operation but maybe outdoors we might still want more power. factory defaults new values PID pitch/roll 3.3, .030, 23 1.2, .071, 20 rate 0.0 PID yaw 6.8, .045, 0 1.8, 0.14, 10 rate 0.0 PID LEVEL 9, .010, 100 20.0, 0.050, 100 throttle MID 0.50 0 EXPO 0 0.82 RATE 0.90 0.35 EXPO 0.65 0 TPA 0.0 0 super fast yaw rate is cool if you like spinning with PID yaw 2.0, .1, 0 PID Yaw that I like but maybe will make a bit slower at some point. 2.0, .25, 0 PID Yaw that is a bit on the slow side if you like slow Yaw speeds, I flew it ok with same other settings above. I still note drift in yaw clockwise with pulse of thrust 3.0, .1, 10 PID Yaw that is even more slow but also is stable without pulses of thrust that seem to cause drift in yaw on faster settings 5, .071, 10 PID Yaw this is a good medium speed yaw that minimized yaw drift and still provides fun spin speeds 3.5, .085, 10 found these values at: by Mega9eleven PID pitch/roll 2.6, .03, 23 rate .65 PID Yaw: 5, .077, 0 rate .55 PID Level 6, .01, 100 I can get level flight to fly for a bit but it still losses control after time. also acro has some vibration like P is too hight or ??

Monday, December 23, 2013

M2 flying wing aircraft for medium scale FPV design and test history

I've already done some preliminary drawings of what is presently being called the M2 wing design as seen in these dxf drawings and jpg images bellow:
From m2_wing
The M2 (was called Z54) will be used in my next phase of my long range FPV aircraft with up to 50 minuets airtime aloft due to it's larger batteries and increased distance flight range. As compared to the S3 wing the M2 has over 2 times as much wing area of 4562 sqr. cm as compared to 2073 sqr cm of the S3. It's wing span is 137 cm compared to the S3 with 89.2. It will carry up to 6600mah 4 cell bats and payloads of up to 1 lb to enable flights with a GoPro cam or other equipment as desired. You might note in the m2_partslist.xls file that I've included parts that can be used to extend the video and remote control range with the needed more powerful 1000mw 2.4ghz video transmiter and a 600mw 433mhz r/c remote transmitter to provide up to 7km and possibly more range if needed with improved antennas as compared to the S3 video gear and transmitter that will provide you maybe up to 1 - 1.5km range. The upgrade is optional. you can still move the video equipment and standard r/c gear from the S3 version of FPV to use this wing. This wing with it's longer wingspan should be more stable than the S3 and could also be used for training if desired. For filming it should also provide a good platform for a gopro cam or equivalent with the original S3 gear to take some cool stable shots. The Z54 is named after the zephyr 54 inch wing span wing, in fact it's really a clone of the top view of the 54 inch wing span zephyr as seen from Team Blacksheep web page. It is also classified as my M2 standing for medium scale version 2. I've made some ruff draft dxf file so I have an idea of the size of things and the material needed to build one. I also did a quick CG calculation to see were that is on my drawings and to see what the wing aria will be. From the preliminary drawing it looks like I will need 2 blocks of 2 inch foam that are 93cm x 39cm. I think I might be able to squeeze 2 wings out of one 2 X 4 X 2 standard block of foam if I'm careful but it seems to be cutting it very close. The drawings I presently have are just traces from photos as seen on the team blacksheep page. The accuracy is +-2 degrees and +- 1cm in some places. I also noted from the video that the wing they use is a 12% thick wing so I could ether us the zagi12 or maybe the TL54. As by luck I already have a zagi wing template that happens to be about the correct size needed at 43cm. Just a bit big but tolerable. The other problem with this size template is also that you have to print the template in two parts as it's bigger than a standard 11 inch printer and A4 paper that we have available and later needs to be glued together onto the template material that will be cute. The desired template size in this case is about So if you would like to try build one before me that's the size you would want to rescale your printed airfoil cord length to. The option to use a thicker airfoil in this case is not desirable as at 12% it's already 2 inches thick and uses 100% of our 2 inch thick foam at the thick points. If your making a template I would recommend the TL54 12%. I've included the TL54 airfoil in the m2 wing picasa image collection. I've also added a parts list that includes the parts to make the Z54 wing into a long range FPV system with ranges possibly up to 6km or more. It assumes you already have leftover parts from the build of the S3 wing that is an FPV trainer and should be flown before you ever build one of these. Also I failed to note on the parts list of the S3 and m2_partslist that you should have purchased the 9X remote control unit for the S3 if you plan on ever upgrading to the Z54 wing and others. If you plan to just fly it as plane without fpv then all the parts for S3 except swap the motor, speed control, servos and propeller as seen on the m2_partlist should be fine. Oh the batteries are also bigger with 3300 mah 4 cell and it needs two of them installed just to fly. I might end up modifying the scale a bit or just create another version M3 wing that will still use 2 of my original 2200mah 3 cell batteries as I've collected a number of them now ( 8 at last count) and I would hate to have to start another collection of another battery type that can't be swapped between my other planes. But to push the range I guess there might be no other way than another battery type. On another note I might have finally found a way to make a center wing junction that will come apart for transport. I found carbon fiber tubes at of 10mm and 12mm outer diameter with wall thickness of about 1.5mm that I'm told slip into each other. With 2 36cm long tubes spanning cross wise at 30% into the wing junctions or maybe a third joint to have two on the bottom of the wing and one at the top of the wing. With this the 147cm wing will come apart into two 74cm sections. That size would make it possible to continue to transport in my bicycle side bags. Also it opens up the possibility of making a 3 section wing were the center becomes more of a composite wing shaped box to contain electronics and batteries. Until I have a sample of the tubes we won't know for sure but it sounds very promising. And two carbon fiber tubes are only $8.50 making it affordable to at least try. I've added the part numbers of the tubes to the M2_partslist.xls file and plan to give it a try. I also made an almost complete parts list of the Z54 that includes parts needed if you started from nothing including r/c radio and chargers. The total price now of a full system starting from nothing is now up to about $820 USD or 24420 baht. For me to upgrade to a full system looks to be more around $650 usd with the parts I already have in my inventory. I'll have to see what a minimal build price is on it with no FPV or radio equipment. for me will be around $20 or less as I have most the parts in inventory to at least make one fly. Update Nov 30, 2012 8:45am I uploaded some cleaned up drawings to my site. I kept the original files that are called zephyr.dxf as a reference but the new updated drawings are now called m2_wing.dxf and m2_wing.pdf. see link for updates: Update Dec 3, 2012 9:25am Construction of the now called M2 wing has begun. Yestarday I went and got a few things I was short to begin construction including a block of foam, some clear tape and some coroplast, total checkout cost so far from Friendship market was 160 baht ( about $5.16 USD). Last night I did the hot wire foam cut and some sanding of the wing cores. I ended up using my zagib 12% 42cm core template rather than the planed TL54 airfoil to save some construction time on this first prototype as I already had this template made that was used and tested in the BW1 wing. This morning I edited the cad drawings to simplify how I was going to measure and do the finnal top cuts of the wing. With the added cad info I was able to finish the cuts with no problems or questions. So I went ahead and published the new updated dxf and pdf files as seen: the file name is now m2_wingc.pdf, stands for version C. I also striped 4 peaces of bamboo that will be used as the cross and wing core spars in this prototype instead of the planed carbon fiber tubes. The changes to use bamboo spars is not finalized as I had hoped to use carbon fiber tubes to make it break apart for easy transport. This just enable me to do preliminary testing without expensive carbon fiber. So it's all going together quickly maybe done in 2 more days? As I'm exited that the remaining parts from hobbyking are on the way so this will hopefully be ready and possibly test flown about the time the remaining electronics and video equipment arrive from hobbyking. Here's what she looks like so far as compared with the S2 wing behind it: Update Dec 4, 2012 10:57am : Today I sheeted the wing of the M2 and also cut and shaped the elivons. I'm now figuring out how I will mount the big motor. I'm more looking at a temp solution not a permanent one just to try it. I won't be putting the battery into the wing on the test flights ether as I'm not sure of CG and I don't have the batteries that I had planed to install in the plane yet anyway. I will try the 4.0mah 4 cell battery I have just attached on top the wing using bamboo under coroplast sheet to velcro the battery on to make it adjustable to try. I think it will be ready for a test flight by late today or early tomaro. How I will transport it is another question so the bike rack might slow a full test flight down by a day. If the Soi 5 beach lot is clear I might be able to do a preliminary test flight there today or tomaro. But they have been putting some shops on the Soi 5 lot that might prevent that from being possible. I also measured the weight of the wing with no elivons or electronics on board just the sheeted wing and the embedded bamboo spars is ony 270 grams. The balsa elevons together are 20 grams. The 4.0mah 4 cell battery is 425 grams. and the big motor with mount and 10 inch propeller is 147 grams. That's now adding up to 862 grams already. So it might be as much as 900 - 1000 grams when it's done. Almost 2X as heavy as the S3. Update Dec 5, 2012 7:35pm: I have the M2 almost completed with the motor, ESC, receiver mounted and servo's with elevons working. The only thing not completed is the verticle wing tip stabalizers that should only take 10 minuets to complete since I have the coroplast material in stock. The other problem I found is that the elevator seems to be reversed when I radio tested it. I forget how to reverse this with the elivon mix setting, but I'm sure it will be corrected in about 15 minuets with some research. So it should be ready to fly by tomaro morning. As the bicycle rack is now also ready we might try take it to the stadium field tomaro if all goes as planed. Update Dec 6, 2012 4:42am: It's done! all ground tests and trims are completed, big 4.0Ah battery is charged and CG checked with big battery installed. Elevons are now setup correctly with transmiter with new program in transmiter named wing M2. I have exponetial elevon set at 80% and it looks like it has too much throw in the control surfaces that we can later program down if needed. Oh one last thing I will do when it gets light is paint the left wing with my day glow orange strip that I use to distingush the top and bottom of my plane in flight. It is also my trademark as anyone see's a plane painted like that they know it's a 99% chance that it's a scotty proto type plane. I woke up at 2:30am with a desire to work on it and now it's time to take another nap. When I wake up maybe I'll think of more things I forgot. Update Dec 6, 2012 9:52am: I got it painted with my day glow and made some safety flags for the rack mount. here's the completed photo before it has ever flown. It will never look this good again. It will soon get banged up and never be so prity as this (here it's pictured next to the S3 wing for size referenc): As it's completed it's wingspan is now measured at 140cm or 55 inches. That's 1 inch longer than a zephyer wing that we attempted to clone. Close enuf? Update Dec 7, 2012 6:14am: Todays M2 flight was not without drama but it had more success than failures. To start the bike wing rack seems to work. If I had glued all the joints it would have been a 100% success but to test it as I thought it would require a few more adjustments , I just used inertube strips to hold the joints together. This worked for about 2km before it's first failure. I added some gaffers tape to continue for the next 10km. The total bike trip distance tested on this rack is now 24km. With the added tape the trip continued and went OK. So I'll finalize the glue joints tomaro. When I got to the stadium field I found a group of a few new people that ended up being very helpful in providing me with the intellectual and moral support I needed. The first flight launch was OK with unpowered throw launch but seconds after take off I felt like I had no power. As I lowered throttle it seemed I would get a little more thrust but later not even that was enuf to continue the flight and had to land dead stick. Landing was OK with no damage. On the ground the problem was detected that the spacer washer I had used in the spinner didn't hold up so the prop was not being spun. But thanks to the ingenuity of my peers they figured out we could use 2 plastic tops off a water bottles that we found as trash on the ground to replace it. With the new spacers in place I did a ground test at full power and with quick changes in throttle to verify that it would work and all seemed OK so we were ready for a second flight. Surprisingly the second flight of the M2 went almost perfect. The take off went OK with a unpowered throw launch as it felt OK I powered it up after the launch and got it trimmed up OK at slow speed. It had a lot of control throw so was a bit squirrelly to start but after it was trimmed it felt very stable. I was mostly flying the flight slow to start but later ran it up to full speed in level flight OK with no problems and still very stable with no oscillation or elivon fluter detected. Top speed doesn't seem very fast I think maybe 55mph in level flight. I'll later take a measurement with my GPS to verify speeds. I did some roles that felt very stable and quicker than I expected but with no problem. Upside down flight went OK. I did some test stalls that were very quick and easy to recover at the present CG settings of 25cm from nose. The unpowered glide test looked good with a very slow sink rate. I then was going to start some higher speed dive tests with the first I attempted to do a loop. But at the pull-up stage of when the nose got to about 45 degrees up from the hard pull up with full throttle I heard a griding noise that was later to be seen was the prop hitting the wing. So it seems I didn't provide the needed clearance for the prop bending that seems to happen more in quick full powered fast vector changes. So the rest of the tests in this flight had to be back to lower power maneuvers. But note before high power tests were stopped I did attempt total vertical climb that I don't think it can do even at it's present wing loading without the video gear installed. I'm not sure what angle it can do yet but maybe around 50 - 60 degrees continuous climb or a bit more maybe is best we can do with this motor prop 4 cell bat combo. At landing It stalled a bit earlier than I expected on an unintentional flare but with no damage. On the next launch it seemed the wind had died down to nothing. With no wind to throw it into it seemed I didn't get enuf speed to setup a good launch and it ended up being a failed attempt. I was able to power down quick enuf to prevent any damage to the wing or prop on this attempt. The battery was ejected on impact but was not damaged as it found some nice soft grass to hit on impact. After this scare and with some input from my consulting crew it was decided to try have someone else throw the wing at launch so I could focus on just the controls. This ended up being a bad idea. I'm not sure why since it seemed to be a good throw but is seems I didn't provide enuf power soon enuf or not enuf up elevator too late. And as just before impact I had the motor up to full speed in an attempt to get it up when the prop hit the ground and broke my only propeller. The only damage to the wing was a bit more foam chunks removed from the prop cutout but only cosmetic damages. On my return home I dropped into my hobby shop and picked up one of the only props the size I could use that was 10 inch 5.5 pitch that was only 70 baht ( about $2.30 USD). I would have liked a bit bigger prop but that's the longest biggest pitch they had in stock. The prop that I broke was an 11 inch 5.5 pitch. We also did some current measurements on the 1155 prop that peak at full throttle was measured to about 30 amps with the 4 cell battery I was using. That was good as I only presently have a 40 amp ESC. So at best maybe we could spin an 1165 or 1250 prop with this ESC if I was careful not to push it unless really needed. So not too expensive of a day with more positive results than negative ones. And with no real damage to the wing so far. On the bicycle trip home with the rack we had a few more failures of the pipe pulling out but that will be corrected when I get them glued together. Another thing I should note as suggested by my consulting crew is that the motor mount needs some screws or other method to fix into the bamboo base to keep it better held in place. The movement of the motor mount is partly at fault of the prop hitting the wing prop cut out section. So I hope to have some needed changes ready by tomaro afternoon to give it another try. Wish me luck! oh I just got the readings from the charger for todays usage of the 4.0Amp battery recharge miliwatts total 1129 in 57:51 minuets. That was used in a total of about 8 minuets of flight and not counting ground testing. So I guess maybe it will fly up to 30 minuets at slow speed if pushed with this battery? But for now I'll keep it to around 12 minuets to see how that goes. Update Dec 7 12:47pm: I installed the new 1055 propeller and made some changes in the motor mount with some added plastic straps and two pinning screews to hold it in place to the bamboo mounting plate. Some gaffers tape was also added to prevent the bamboo base mounting plate from possibly changing position. I also added some slots in the bottom of the wing directly behind the rear cross spar to be used as a handle to help get a better throw to get it airborn as I was instructed by my consulting crew yestarday. It's now ready for another test flight that I hope to do later this afternoon depending on if I can complete the needed changes to the bike wing rack to allow me to carry two planes instead of just one. Then if I crash one plane I will have a backup wing to play with. Also with only one battery for the M2 it will provide me more airtime with my present battery inventory with the S3 or S1 wings as a backup plane. Oh since the S1 comes apart it might even be possible to transport 3 wings on my bicycle? I'll look into that possibility later. A thanks goes out to my consulting crew seen in the picture bellow: Update Dec 9, 2012 9:18am: Test flight of the M2 yesterday was far from perfect. It seems the new 1055 propeller I installed seemed to be out of balance. At full throttle the motor mount would vibrate. It was still spinning OK at slow speeds so I decided it was worth a try at slow, but I was wrong. The launch went well using the new finger holes to provide a handle gives me the needed airspeed at launch to get it airborne with less of a problem than before. With the limited prop speed I was able to do some low altitude maneuvers for about 4 minuets of the flight with no problem but when I attempted to gain altitude I got it up to about 50 meters before it felt like I lost thrust power. The throttle stick had no effect and I could hear that the motor wasn't making the normal noise that I had heard in the past. I thought I must have another spinner problem and was forced to land dead stick again with no damage and on the tar mat. When I got a chance to look at it closer I noted that the motor seemed hot and also the speed controller was hot. I could smell something had burned in the speed controller. It had that chared silicon smell I have smelled many times in a burned power supply. I let it cool for about 10 minuets before I attempted to try to power it up again for a test. When I provided power the motor would click and rotate to a fixed position and freeze like one of the coils was being powered up on the motor. I quickly discontented the power to prevent the motor from being damaged any more but I think it's probably toasted also. This motor I noted already seemed to have a bent drive shaft since I got it and may have gotten more bent from the last landing that broke the 11 inch propeller. So maybe that's why they put folding props on these flying wings? So I will have to put this project on hold until I obtain a new motor, prop and ESC set. At least we now know that the airframe is flight worthy and stable and worth investing in a new power set. Unconnected to this event my backup S3 wing that I also brought to the field this day also burned an ESC from having put a larger pitch prop on it with a new lower amp 30A ESC I had installed on it. So two for two bad luck today. As I didn't have an amp meter in my inventory yet I had no way of knowing that this could happen. The good news is that my present order from has an amp meter in the package that I will from now on use to test any prop changes and new ESC with motor installs on the ground before flight. As long as we learn from our mistakes all is good. Update Dec 25, 2012 3:13am: Today we finally got some good flights out of the new M2 wing (4 total). The first flight I had a good launch with the finger holes to give it a good throw. I'm able to power up and get it to fly vertical with the new 40A turnigy plush ESC that I got from Nick when a 4 cell lipo battery is used. I'm not sure why the motor spins a bit smoother now. I thought it had a bent drive shaft but I guess it was partly to do with the prop not being balanced properly. After reinstalling it seems to be more centered and balanced for a slightly smoother high speed spin. The winds at the first flight at 1:30pm were a bit above normal and caused me some problems to get the wing trimmed. It was gusty like 15mph with pockets of 5mph to make for unpredictable flight events. Also the first flight I found that the wing felt a bit tail heavy with difficulty to get elevator trim to a stable point as it would purpose. On the second flight I moved the 4Ah 4 cell battery about 2.25cm forward just outside the rear Velcro strap. I had to temp setup a strap in front with some nylon tie raps since the rear strap no longer reaches the battery. With this setting the second flight felt much more stable. One of the bad points is that the M2 wing had a very bad unpowered glide but this is mostly due to not having a folding prop. The big 10” prop spins up even at slow speeds and adds a lot of drag. I might try set the brake on the motor ESC to get a better unpowered glide with a non folding prop that might provide a small improvement. I got a 3rd flight from the 4ah 4cell battery before I got what sounded like the motor wasn't spinning up with quick changes. So I thought that must be it on this battery for the day. When I landed I took a voltage check on the bat without load at 15.1Vcd. I later took a forth flight late in the afternoon about 5:00pm when the winds got smoother. But this time I added one of my 2200mah 3cell batteries that I tied to the 4Ah battery. I kept the 4ah battery installed but not hooked up just to provide the needed mass to keep the CG position. In fact with the added 2.2ah battery the CG was moved just a bit more forward on the last flight at about 1.5 cm forward the present marked estimated CG line. It still flies OK with 3 cells and this CG point. It just no longer can fly vertical but can still climb at about 45 degrees. On this flight I did some rolls that I was surprised at the roll speed faster than expected for a big wing and also tried one loop even with the limited power. On the other flights I was able to open up the throttle full and put it into a 45 degree dive for about 20 meters to get more speed without seeing any problems. I don't think top speed with this prop is very fast at maybe about 60 mph top speed in flat and level flight. I will take a real speed reading tomaro with my android phones gps. With the winds today I couldn't really judge the stability. But it didn't even feel as stable as the S3 wing. I should build one more of this size using the TL54 airfoil to see if that makes it more stable. This still has the zagib 12% airfoil. I also failed to test the planed gyro and accelerometer stabalizer on the M2 as I failed to program the passthru switch into my last software modification. We should have at least the gyro stabalizer mode ready to test tomaro on the M2. The acc or level flight mode might be a problem since I don't have a computer in the field to do the acc calibration after I install the board on the plane. With level flight mode working It might be ready to try the FPV mode on it with the fatshark goggles and video transmitter equipment that is planed for this aircraft. As I hope to have the gps with return to home working before FPV but that might be some time before we have that working.

Learning to make videos with quadcopters

Thanks to "Paul the Toy Man" we have had the opportunity to play with some really cool toys. I never realized how easy it would be to fly one of these small Quads. I've been learning on the very small ladybird that can handle crashes and doesn't break or kill as many people as the bigger ones, as I've had to crash a lot to learn how to fly these things at all. As you might note in the video above this video has been speeded up by 4X as an experiment with ffmpeg to change PTS. For details on how that is done see this link for details also I found I can use google drive as a source to embed my videos from to save bandwidth on my free host server. Also with some of Paul's other toys and acting as a team we are working on adding a cool HD Gopro Hero 1 video camera to some of his bigger Quads. This is what we got so far with a night flight at Pattaya beach. We are both just learning some of the complexities of video on a quad so we haven't quite perfected it yet. But I wanted to share what we have and hope to show you as we progress with improvments as we go. These video are taken with a Gopro Hero 1 with settings of R2 video mode that captures 720p at 30 fps. We only have a C4 quality flash mem card in the cam so we can't really use the higher resolution modes that are avalable on the Hero 1 that include R1 - R5 were R3 would be 720p 60fps and R5 would be 1080p 30 fps. So here it is the first of our published video's taken Jun 23, 2013 at about 9:00pm at Pattaya beach in R2 mode for 720p 30fps. I compressed the original video down to 1Mb/sec 30 fps using ffmpeg into divx mpg4 to upload it to google picasa. I then see they recompress it even more so the quality is not like the original as I see the frame rate is much slower on playback from picasa. but you get the idea of the content in any case. I will have to figure out how to keep more quality in the content of the public published work at some point in the future. The second Video I tried compress to 1.5Mb/sec to see if it improves quality a bit and I found that it does look better with this compresion. How ever with less compresion left me with a 100mb file I had to upload. I have very slow upload speed of only .8mb/sec so it takes alot of time to upload even these small video files. I add 1_5mbs or 1mbs to the end of the file to indicate what method of compresion I used before I published. I also didn't realize I can't embed the video from picasa direct into my wordpress page here. It's just a slide show of what is seen in the picasa album. But you can see the video's if you click the embeded slideshow image that opens the link to the google picasa to view the videos. I guess in the future I will have to try youtube or memo or ?? to embed video directly here. It's all learn as you go for me at this point. Update Jun 25, 2013 2:37pm: I found I couldn't embed videos in your websites using google picasa, but you can embed if you use google drive. So I moved one of the files to google drive and is now seen in the above pattaya beach video using the 1mb/sec compressed file I created. this link gave me most of what I needed to figure out how to embed using google drive . So we have been making some progress. You should soon be seeing some cool stuf here when we get it all figured out. Update Jun 25, 2013 5:08pm: I found that on the gopro in R3 and R5 modes I was getting what looked like droped frames. I thought this was due to the slow flash mem we had the was originaly a C4. I got a new C10 flash but still was looking like droped frames but now I think the problem is in my old slow computer that can't render supper high definition 14mb/sec video in real time. So I tried compress it down to 3mb/sec and played back the same video just fine. So now I plan to try the R3 mode for 60fps and slow it down and compress it to have a replay of slowmotion that should look cool.

How to buy stuff from from Thailand

First problem I had with was that I didn't have a account setup localy in Thailand. As I'm from USA my paypal account was in USA and it can't be modified to have a billing address in Thailand. To correct this the only way I could figure out was to create a new paypal account for thailand that linked to one of my Thai bank accounts. So to do this part: I am going to attempt setting up a kbank virtual debit/credit card to be used on to enable me to purchase stuff from I first setup a savings account at my local kbank branch on Nov 17, 2012 at about 2:30pm on a Saturday I might add. I told them I wanted a K-Cyber account for paypal and they said no problem they just needed my passport and my address and 2000 baht minimum deposit plus 800 baht to open the account and my cell phone number and my email address. I might add I had problems originaly setting up an account at kbank before I had a retirement visa. Seems they wanted a visa had more than 90 days left on it. Also at the time they wanted a work permit. Those problems seemed to have gone away with the retirement visa or maybe it's less of a problem these days as last time I tried was over 4 years ago. It wasn't more than 20 minuets before the Kbank staff gave me a bankbook and a noname ATM card with visa electron and plus network access on it. I later checked on the time of deposit that was at 15:08 on Nov 17, 2012. Note this is not the card you will be using for your paypal account. This card is only good at ATM's and maybe some local Thailand stores. When I got home I noted I had an sms message saying that my mobile phone was ready for Internet shopping. I checked my email I had given them but I saw nothing there yet and I still didn't have any user name or password to login to the website. The next morning I checked my email and found that I had received email from kbank that was time stamped at 18 Nov 2012 03:01:02 +0700 about 12 hours from when I opened the account with a temp username and password that enabled me to setup a real username and password at kbank. With the first login it also showed what they had entered as your mailing address and phone number and other profile info that you could now change as I did with my address that they had input in thai letters. I modified the address to be in standard English Latin lettering so that I could read them and I would think my paypal vendors might like English better. When I got all the first login stuff completed I logged into the K-cyber-banking system and selected K-Web Shopping card > Apply Card. There It first sends me an SMS security one time password before I can continue I must enter the received password into the box and apply. Note this phone number for the one time password was first entered at an ATM when I first opened the account. You can also change this phone number again from any kbank ATM if needed. Then I setup the virtual card that linked to the only account I now have in the Kbank. I did this transaction at 3:00pm on Nov 18, 2012. I didn't know it took time for this transaction to create this card to happen. As I would try K-Web Shopping Card > View Card Details and it would return this account not setup for this. So I thought I must have done something wrong so I attempted to Apply for another card. This time it return that this account had already applied for a card. So I waited and checked again 12 hours later at 3:00am and still same with status card application is being processed. I'll try again at 12:00pm tomaro and see how long it really takes for this process so that others will know how long to wait before bothering to look at all. Update Nov 19, 2012 9:00am : I got an email stating that: Subject: KBank has received your request for K-Web Shopping Card KASIKORNBANK has already received your request for a K-Web Shopping Card. When your card is ready, we will inform you through your registered e-mail. I didn't see this email yestarday but it's timestamped as received at 18 Nov 2012 14:54:50 +0700. so that's 2:45pm bkk time about the time I applied for the card on the web site. so I guess there is still some lag in yahoo mail that I might have missed it? Update Nov 19, 2012 10:55am: I got the email from kbank that my shopping card application was accepted. email timestamp was 19 Nov 2012 09:33:30 +0700 . So I guess I'm ready for the next step of trying it on the site with paypal. I went ahead and added the virtual debit card that was created to my thailand account and also had it verified there. As the verification will take a few days I'm going ahead and attempting the purchase before it's verified in hopes that it will already work. I note the paypal exchange rate when I make the purchase is PayPal Conversion Rate as of 19 Nov, 2012: 1 Thai Baht = 0.0313127 US Dollars as compared to 0.0325 is what I see the exchange rate today when I googled it about a 4% difference in's favor. cool it looks like the transaction went through with the manual payment option on my order. The time now is 11:41am Nov 19, 2012 so now we will see how long it takes for my new Fatshark googgles and video transmiter to get here. I checked my account and verified that I see a $404.42 account transaction at 11:38am on Nov 19, 2012. I also note that it first used the 120 baht I had in the account before it used the debit card to get the rest of the funding needed. Update Nov 20, 2012 11:09am: Status at site is still reserved on all items. There is an added message at the bottom: Order Messages; Notes; Customer paid with: instant HK Absorbed PayPal Charge:10.01 PayPal TXN ID:6CV134304Y720**** Your order will be manually checked before processing. Please allow 24hr for us to conduct this check. Reason; High-Risk Country Update Nov 21, 2012 9:00am: No change parts status still shows reserved. Update Nov 22, 2012 7:15am: No change in parts status still shows reserved when I login to hobbyking account. it does show status: paid, processing on the top orders status (same as before) I did note today that I had received an email from hobbyking on Nov 17, 2012 on my email account stating that they have my order and that another email would arrive when they get payment confirmation. no other email from hobbyking seen since that date. My friends at the field say it normally only takes 10 days to get here from date of order so I'm getting worried. I added images of my status to my picasa site that I will update each time I see changes in my status as seen here:
From hobbyking
Update Nov 23, 2012 12:19pm: No change status: paid, processing Update Nov 24, 2012 9:18am No change in hobbyking status: paid, processing I got an email from kbank today stating they just made a payment to PAYPAL *UHOBBIES on Nov 23, 2012. Not sure why it's taken this long to see this transaction as I saw the funds leave the kbank acount the same day I made the transaction 5 days ago. Update Nov 25, 2012 1:05pm No change status: paid, processing Update Nov 26, 2012 3:11pm No change status: paid, processing Update Nov 27, 2012 3:56pm No change status: paid, processing Update Nov 28, 2012 9:53am No change status: paid, processing I did attempt to do a live chat with yestarday but after I sent them a short message asking why my status hasn't changed, I got no responce after waiting about 20 minuets. I did get an email response back from them showing that they did get my chat message I sent them. I think it might already be the Xmas season that might be slowing it down? Bad timing on my part to try to start this now. Update Nov 28, 2012 5:25 I did a change to my order with direct chat with hobbyking that seemed to work this is the chat session: You are now chatting with : Zoe (Customer Service) Zoe: Thank you for contacting the HobbyKing Support Team. How may I help you? You: yes I have an order already and was wondering if I could add some items to it? Zoe: may i have the order number? You: yes 200564**** You: I was told by a friend that he was able to add if it wasn't printed yet Zoe: yes we can add for you Zoe: please provide quantity*product ID You: oh cool, how oh ok just a moment Zoe: sure You: part part id weight price qty FTDI Adapter USB Controller - 5V 9000003 5 4.75 1 MultiWii PRO Flight Controller w/MTK GPS Module 387000003 78 65.26 1 Carbon Fiber Tube (hollow) 12x750mm CF15 50 4.66 2 Carbon Fiber Tube (hollow) 10x750mm CF12 19 3.95 2 30CM Servo Lead Extention (JR) 26AWG(10pcs/bag) AM1043-30CM 53 2.48 1 You: oh can you read that? Zoe: could you do it like 1* 9000003 to avoid mistake? You: sure just a moment Zoe: thanks Zoe: and 9000003 is not a product ID You: oh let me double check that one You: 1*9000003 1*387000003 2*CF15 2*CF12 1*AM1043-30CM Zoe: 9000003 is not a valid product ID You: ya that's an error on my part just a moment You: 1*009000003 You: You: my spread sheet just cut the leading zeros You: ok? Zoe: sorry there was a connection error Zoe: one moment please You: no problem You: oh I just found that AM1043-30CM is now back ordered so I will cancel that add Zoe: ok Zoe: You may send the funds $92.43 to our PayPal account at Please provide me the Transaction ID of your payment from PayPal for verification. You: ok You: my total is showing 87.23, was there added shiping? Zoe: yes it is over 2 kg now You: ok You: Payment Sent (Unique Transaction ID0AB39127JC59*****) You: does that sound correct? You: 28 Nov, 2012 Payment To hexTronik Limited Completed ... -$92.43 USD Zoe: One moment please. You: ok Zoe: payment received Zoe: thank you You: wow you guys are the coolist thank you very much You: how long before my order is processed about? Zoe: thank you, our warehouse will ship your order in 2 working days You: wow cool and I already see it in my status ok that's it thanks again Update Nov 28, 2012 I didn't notice this email I had received from hobbyking that stated why my order had been delayed after I had sent the offline chat message before: Jessi, Nov 28 13:39 (HKT): Hi Scott Carlson , Thanks for contacting the HobbyKing Support Team. Please kindly note that the order had been held by system automatically due to a litter difference from the billing address and shipping address. I have put the order back into the process of the 0rder and we will ship out the order after we packed all items into the parcel for you. Thanks for your understanding and patience. Thanks for emailing support. If you have any other questions, please let me know. Regards. Jessi : I thought I was sure to make both my addresses the same, I will have to look again and see what might have been different. been anyway it seems to be fixed now. Update Nov 29, 2012 5:13pm No change status: paid, processing Update Nov 30, 2012 8:55am No change status: paid, processing I do note I see three green checks on warehouse status not sure that's different or not. I also heard from Nick that he has had some googgles stuck in custom now for going on two weeks that were sent from Team Black Sheep TBS shipped from USA. I wonder if there have been changes in regulation for import of video tranmiters/ recievers in Thailand or something? Update Dec 1, 2012 10:58am Good news! I got an email today from hobbyking stating: FW: Scott, Your items for order:2005649*** have been packed and will soon be shipped. Status from login to hobbyking is seen as unchanged with paid, processing. So I guess email from hobbyking is more detailed than the status seen on there web site. Update Dec 1, 2012 10:35pm more good news! I got email from hobbyking that they already shipped my package and sent me a tracking number: Hi This is an email to inform you that your item has been dispatched from our warehouse. TRK#: EQ302444*** To: Scott Carlson 482/*** Mo *** soi ** Nongprue Banglamung, Chonburi 20150, TH THAILAND Ph:6686827**** I also see status: shipped when I login to my hobbyking account. Update Dec 5, 2012 12:38pm: I logged into hobbyking account and got the link to track my parcel. At the link to speedpost I checked my tracking number and see this: EQ302444**** Hong Kong Thailand Acknowledged at Transit Centre 03/12/2012 21:46 . So it won't be long now. Update Dec 8, 2012 7:31am: I've been checking the postage status and thought I should update this with what I see today from speedpost: Update Dec 11, 2012 7:35pm: when I got home from flying today my door man called to me telling me I've got a notice. sure enuf it's the package we have been weighting for. It shows the value of my parsel being 14,000 baht with a total assesment of duty of 3976 baht. That's a bit more than I expected but it's Thailand. So tomaro I'll run to banglamung post office and try to pick up my goods. This is what I now see on the tracking from both thailand EMS and speedpost can be seen in my google picasa galery:
Update Dec 12, 2012 2:20pm : We got it!! I went down to the banglamung post office on my bicyle to pick up my package. I found the post office from this site . that had a nice google map to guide me there. When I got to the post office at about 1:05pm I was surprized to see there was no lines of people. I asked the first person I saw at a window on the bottom floor for EMS she said yes with a smile. No scary looks like I'm used to at the imagration department. She asked for my passport and had me sign a few papaers and in about 3 minuets total I had my package handed to me. The box looked a bit beat up but no hole in it and looked to be never opened. I paid her the 3947 baht duty and vat fee's and she gave me a reciet and my package. when I got it home I opened the box and found everything in order with all that I had purchased in the box well packed and undamaged. It took me a total of 26 days from the day I opened my new Kbank account to the date of receiving my first package from . I'm sure my next package won't take that long. It's always the first one that is the most difficult. So that's the end of this article. If you have any other questions just ask in the reply box below.

S3 mini wing design and test history

Update Nov 16 2012: nothing much to add other than I played a bit with the CG putting it a bit more back with an added penlight battery and my steel rod wing joiners taped to the rear edge in back of the motor. This put the CG just on the line or a bit back by 5mm from the rear cross spar. With this setting I feel I get a better unpowered glide with just a bit less stability seen when I do some radical full over stick rolls. I could try even more rear cg but I didn't have anthing more I could add to push it any farther back. maybe today I will add coins to the wingtips as it has a bigger falcrum it might have a bigger effect. It might also slow the roll rate a bit and maybe add some roll stability so I'll try it today. Update Nov 14 2012: some airborn video of the S3 in flight using an 808 keychain video cam #9 from That I got secound hand from Gorge. This video is my attempt at chasing a plane to video it in flight. The plane I'm chasing belongs to my buddy we call the mig man (real name Sergay?). Named from when he used to fly real rusian mig jets. I must say that the video isn't very good as I'm still learning what can be done with it.
From mini wing S3
Udate Nov 15 2012: The now considered completed plans of the S3 have been released. The dxf drawings and a parts list can be seen at my google docs page at: Bellow are the archived Design logs and test results of the S3 started Nov 3 2012: I've started design work on my new S3 version wing. The S3 will be almost the same as the S2 only it will have a new customized TL54 airfoil 15% thickened. I had originally planed to use a fauvel airfoil but I stumbled onto some cool software called XFLR5 that does polar plots of airfoils and wings that made me change my mind. I had to look at many different airfoils with XFLR5 to make a final decision. I'm sure I will later find or make better airfoils but I have to try something to learn anything. I made a video using XFLR5 of what it looks like as a preview including simulated wind tunnel smoke streaming shots in 3D. See for your self bellow. The goal of the S3 is a test bed of the TL54 airfoil that is planed for use in my FPV aircrafts. If it flys ok I may eather beef it up a bit to enable it to carry the video transmiter and camera or build another like it scaled up in size a bit if needed. At some point I will move successes of the SX (small scale wings) program into my MX (medium scale wings) programs to make the medium scale FPV that will allow bigger batteries for longer flights with added extra equipment including cammera pointing and autonomose flight capabilities. The thickend TL54 airfoil is a high lift wing to provide the ability to fly slower without stall for longer loitering and enable the aircraft to carry more load on the same sized air frame. The thick wing also provides more volume space to fit more equipment inside the wing. The thick wing also makes it stronger and stiffer with little or no spars needed at all in some cases. The first S3 will be built with no spars for testing but may be added in later test flghts with the standard carbon fiber 3mm and 6mm as seen in S2. On the negitive side the S3 I expect should be slower at a top speed of about 60mph at best with the same motor as the S2 that would obtain speeds of 80mph or better with the 2700kv moter and 3 cell lipo batteris. But for a first time FPV pilot like myself I want as slow as possible. I will plan to tune it slower with a 2200kv motor to start as that's what I have in my inventory anyway.
From portable mini wing S2
a compared polar plot that compares the TL54_14% with the original S2 airfoil zagi12 seen bellow.
From portable mini wing S2
As I'm building I've also collected some information and making small changes that I will add here. One big change is that I changed the airfoil from 14% to 15% thickness. This change was made for a number of reasons one being that the raw foam blocks I get are 2 inches thick so to use as much of the foam as posible 15% was closer. 15% also makes the plane a bit stronger in the Y axis and I noted little change in the polar plot for the 15% thickness in xfoil. Now after wing core cut the unsheeted foam core after all cuts on one wing is only 16.6 grams. This foam I got from friendship market is a bit softer and may be lighter than what I got from the shop on central klong, I'm not sure. Even after tape sheeting each wing is only 36 grams. now with added elivons we are up to 41 grams each with added bamboo spars and junction tape should be a total 110 grams without any electronics or servos. with added electronics 177g motor + speed controler mounts, 214g 3000mah bat. total about 533 grams. so that's just a bit lighter that the S2 with 400 square cm more airfoil surface aria compared to S2 for lifting even more. I've also created some dxf drawing files I made in qcad to try to align the wing tip cuts correctly. I posted present version bellow: update: Nov 7, 2012 It seems I've hit a snag in the construction of the new S3. That being my source for 7mm carbon fiber tubes is no longer available. This means I will have to try another method for my spar junction on the prototype S3 wing. I just tested a simulated bamboo spar on a 12% thick wing using 12cm X 1.7cm 2mm strips of bamboo on the rear spar and 12 cm X 1.7cm X 1mm on the front spar section. The rear spar is near the CG so will have more of the total load at the spar joint. I tested it with a 6000 gram load for 10 seconds to verify it's functionality that is an estimated 10G load on the aircraft in a high G turn. I put the simulated wing load between two blocks with only .5cm overlap into each of the end tips of the 12cm spar box sections. The bamboo spar parts were 6.1grams and 8.6 grams that compares to about the same mass as the carbon fiber tube that was about 8.5 grams each for 7mm O.D X .5mm wall thickness carbon fiber tubing I was using. The bamboo spars were only held in place and aided with a cap of filament gaffers tape that was 6cm wide on each side of the bamboo spars. No glue was used in the test so hopefully on a temp basis I could assemble and disassemble the wing at the field for transport by adding and removing the gaffers tape on one side to remove or add spars when needed for operation. I continue to look for another source of ether aluminum tube or carbon fiber tube or boxes to make a more permanent fix. This method will at least see if the new airfoil is even worth any more effort and at a cost of almost nothing to try. The bamboo was just something I found at the beach after some rain and is always available if more is needed. Another option is to us the bamboo to make a box to surround a small steel box with carbon fiber tube slide joint. I have some of this steel and carbon material that I got from Tom at the field but I don't know where to get more of it when I run out of what I now have. The other problem with this material is that it's very heavy at .87grams per cm just for the thick carbon fiber tube that is 1.5mm thick by 8mm O.D.. The steel is also heavy at 1gram per cm so with both that is needed for the joint would be 1.8 grams per cm compared to 0.66 grams per cm for bamboo. I also prefer to design and build things that can continue to be built with available materials That also provides methods to know how much it would costs to produce another if desired. The bamboo should provide as much or more strength in the y axis (vertical) than carbon fiber but less in the x axis due to it's more rectangular shape instead of a cylinder shape of the carbon fiber tube. This means I will need the foam all the way across instead of the 3cm gap I had with carbon fiber tube spars that allowed me space to put the electronics and power into. So all the batteries and motor and electronics will have to ride on the top of the wing like I had on the M1 wing. This will add more drag and prevent the sharing of the Velcro mounted power, electronic pod assemblies that I had planed to experiment with different motors and props with quick changes of preambled pods. With the pods I could also experiment on building multiple wings without the need to build or buy more parts to mount motors, batteries and speed controllers. So for this test S3 total hardware material is: 42 baht block foam, 10 baht clear sheet tape, 20 baht balsa elivon stock, 40 baht push rod hardware. Total about 110 baht. The cheapest wing yet. I didn't count the 220 baht each metal geared MG90S servos that I will permanently install in the wing if it works OK. Update Nov 8 2012: I updated the drawings to reflect the use of bamboo spars instead of 7mm carbon fiber and added a few details to the drawing. all drawings are in the same picasa gallery location above. Ok the prototype S3 build is now completed at 6:00pm. Too late to test fly it unfortunatly. The total weight with a 2200mah battery is 500 grams. Thats at least 50 grams less than S2 and the S3 has about 20% more airfoil surface. I can't wait to see how much lift it has. I will test it later with about 300 grams extra load to see how that flies if the normal loaded flights go ok. I took a few pictures of the S3 before any flights to see it in it's unblemished state. The pics will be added to picasa as soon as posible. Update Nov 9 2012 1:00pm: The first test flight of the S3 prototype wing on Nov 9, 12:10pm went better than expected. I did 3 short flights at the Soi 5 beach lot to see if the S3 would fly at all. All that was needed after the first flight were I had to add up trim until I got a solid tone from my radio. On the ground I just saw that I had used up about 30% of the usable radio up trim so after power off and on the radio that sold tone turned off and I did a second test flight. On the second I got the vertical trim as close as possible at the slow speed that I was flying. The S3 seems to be very stable at the slow speed. The CG seems to be close but I might try a bit more forward as it was a bit touchy in elevator but this present setting might be good enuf. On my last landing I pulled back all the way on elevator at flair and didn't notice any stall problems. I think it has a very smooth stall as I had hoped that I will analyze more later. The lot is very small so I had to do all the tests at minimal speeds. I flew in tight circles around myself until I got dizzy and had to land. I only used 317watts of the 2200mah battery that when I returned took only 22 minuets at 2 amps to recharge. So now it's ready for the stadium field test. There I will be able to do the remaining flight tests of the high speed test , stall recovery, roll rate, long level flight at different speeds, load carrying tests, unpowered glide test and others. I've devised a possible method to carry the wing on my bike that is yet untested for the S3 that includes a foam case insert to prevent damage but leaves 60% of the wing exposed outside the case that might be a problem as the air moving across the wing while the bike is in motion will have as yet unknown effects. The other problem is todays weather. It looks like we have a high chance of rain within the next hour that could last 1 or more hours from what I see on the radar. The new method of transport also is not setup to be easy to keep the electronics in the wing dry so this could be a problem. Hopefully by 2:00pm the weather will be looking better. If not we may have to postpone the next tests. Update Nov 10 2012: I had a chance to do some flight tests of the S3 wing today at the stadium field. The bike transport system seems to work perfectly so far with some added bamboo side supports that may not even be needed. I was able to fully trim the wing from the radio without ever having to make any mechanical changes. First test was to try to fly as slow and long as possible. I had a problem with slow due to the new speed controller I got from Tom seems to go from off to 70% throttle when I have a 3 cell battery installed. Most of the slow test I did had to be done in glide with no propeller forces. I was able to get it to altitude with vertical flight with the 2200kv motor and a 6 X 4 prop. I ended up moving the CG a bit back on the 3rd flight by about 1 cm that is just about where the rear spar is located. I see the CG point now by putting my fingers just in front of the rear spar. At this setting I get a very slow stable glide with no power. Before this flight on the second flight I flew the 3000mah 3 cell battery that made the wing a bit more nose heavy and it still flew stable but just didn't have as good a sink rate when I went to slow unpowered glide. I did stall tests that were very good with very easy predictable recovery in all 3 CG positions. When I started higher speed tests things went OK for some time. The difference from the S2 was I was able to do very tight loops even at full throttle with radius of like 5 meters. It reminded me of the tight loops I would do with the talen glider with a fully flouting rear stabilizer. This must be due to the light wing loading and very high lift airfoil. I did some arobatic moves with the role rate I found very good and did some crazy stuf due to the tight roll radius. I later started to see the wing bending at high speed loops and finally I did a very high speed dive and quick pull up that put the wing into a flapping motion much like what I saw with the old 400 powered zagi before we put spars in them. I didn't have enuf altitude to recover so ended up crashing with no damage to anything since most of the speed was lost as the wing flapped. So I tried adding tape to the bottom of the wing to stiffen the wing a bit so I could try one last flight and use the last of my 5 batteries. I was able to get it flying with the last battery but the trim was way off into a right turn and also needed up trim. I finally got the trim set up to fly OK at slow speeds but as I began to increase speed in a flat low tight circle it ended up flapping again. So I ended up landing again without any bad damage to any gear or wing surfaces. So from this it would appear I will need to add another wing spar in the same location as the S2. I had hoped that the 15% thick airfoil would make this unneeded but with this soft foam it seems that's not the case. I will try another bamboo 1.5cm wide by 2mm across each wing at 30% from wing tip. This should add the needed stiffness to provide stable flight up to at least medium speeds. This will add about 70 grams weight or a bit more to the total wings weight. I really need a slower motor or a better working speed controller to do more slow controlled speed test at low altitude so I can see how it acts at different attack angles. The 2 cell battery worked better with this motor prop combo with more control at slow speeds but I only have one 2 cell battery to test with. I think there is a good chance with a few small changes that the S3 wing will be fine for my first FPV aircraft. I think 2 more days of fine tuning and we will have it working to my specs. I still didn't get to do slow flying load testing yet eather as that would require a working ESC also. I think another option to make the wing slower with the present ESC and probly give better battery longevity would be to install a 1600kv - 1100kv or smaller motor with a slower prop. This would also prevent me from pushing the S3 wing to air speeds that this aircraft can't handle at present. This plane is not designed for speed so why push it. Update Nov 11 2012: This morning I added bamboo spars to the top of the S3 wing that are 9mm X 2mm embedded 6cm back from the leading edge. I am adding this change to the qcad drawings as a needed change and will publish the changes to picasa when completed. I hope to test the changes this afternoon at the stadium field. I will also bring my only other 40A ESC speed controler with me to try that as well. I had considered also extending the lower rear spar out to 22cm to each side but after the first spar was added it already feels stif enuf to at least try first. I weighed the wing now without the motor battery pod installed but including the servos and we are now at 187 grams. I'm not sure how that's possible as I thought the bamboo I added was about 200 grams alone. I measured a 19cm leftover spar part and it's 3.1 grams so they might be about .16 grams per centermeter. I added 96cm of the bamboo spar material to the wing and a bit more tape so it should be at least 16.36 grams heavier. If I had known the bamboo was this light I would have added more. Last I measured S3 with a 2200mah battery and I now get 521 grams total. Still 30 grams less than S2. Oh and I found the secreet to this new yellow 30A speed controler I got from Tom. It works fine if I power up the speed controler AFTER I power up the transmiter radio. That must be why I didn't have this problem on my first flights at Soi 5. I must have accedently powered it up correctly that day. Update Nov 12 2012: The S3 tests flights today were beyond my imagination. I flew a total of 6 batteries all but one flight was perfect. On my third flight I was about to land when suddenly I totally lost control and no mater what I did the wing took a dive of about 45 degrees. The lucky thing is it wasn't far from the field and that it ended up on the edge of some 4 foot soft grass with no damage at all. The problem was that the right control push rod broke loose on the elivon side of the push rod. This was due to I just had it press fit with no glue as it had no threads it finally came apart after about 10 or more flights. Thanks to Gorge who provided me some CA glue to fix the problem I was soon back in the air to continue my test flights. I did some very high flights where I just let go the controls and let the wing fly itself. I was able to not touch it for about 30 seconds with no problem. The wing would just go into a wide slow tern. I did this test with no power on the prop. The only reason I couldn't go longer than 30 seconds is that after each circle the wing made it would drift more down wind until it was getting so far that I couldn't see it well so I would finely touch the controls to at least get it to start to return. I also did very tight high speed turns and some high speed dives to test if the wing flapping was corrected. No mater what I did I couldn't get the flap or any other oscillation to happen. Full throttle loops with full up elevator to make 40 foot radius loops about 6 or more in a row no problem. So lucky I didn't put the heavier bamboo spars I had made into it. It seems it didn't need it. So the only test that I wish I would have tried is a heavy load test with 200 grams or a bit more additional mass. I plan to test with two 2200mah batteries on board to see how it will fly with that. As a 2200mah battery is about 180 grams so that's a good test. If that goes well I might try another 100 grams on top of that for a total of 280 grams. As that would mean I could carry 4400 mah battery power plus a video transmitter and cam with added pointing control for the camera. I was already able to crews at very low speed for at least 15 minuets without one of my 2200mah batteries going dead. So with 4400mah ( two 2200mah bats) I should have no problem with a 30 minuet or longer loiter flight. Should we push for 60 minuets? Seems 10 minuets is all I should need as 10 minuets is the maximum time you can publish a video on and the video transmitter and my r/c remote will only fly out 1.5km max so until I get more powerful transmitters on both r/c and video there isn't much need to get a longer loiter flight now is there? Oh maybe to video a parade or something you might want a long flight even in a small area who knows? I had never expected this size wing to be able to do all of these things but I will push it as far as it will go. I also got offered a new key chain video cam from Gorge today for 500 baht. So with that I will be able to publish some of the flights of the S3 before I'm able to get some of the other video equipment (FPV video transmitter and goggles) I have ordered from . With the video key chain I will also measure the top level flight air speed that I think is around 50 mph max. But I think the high speed dive tests I put it in were around 60mph or a bit more. With the key chain cam we might find out for sure. I could also try putting my 120 gram android cell phone into the S3 that also has a gps and accelerometers to measure some stuff like top speed and max G forces. But I'm not sure I want to risk that quite yet. Ok tomarro the load tests and hopefully a new video so just wait and see. Update Nov 13 2012: good news is I got the new video recorder from Gorge today. Bad news is the videos I took suck mostly due to the angle I pointed the cam at 45 degress down so I didn't publish any of them yet. On the good side all my flights went ok and I was able to get a speed measurment with my android phone and new video cam onboard. The max speed I got was 58 mph and this was all tested at level flight with no dives from altitude. That was using a 2200mah battery and the added drag and weight of 120 grams of my android phone plus another 15 grams for the new video camera. Tomaro I'll take some video with different angles of view including looking at the elivons in a high speed dive to see if I see any elivon fluter. I also hope to capture some videos of me chasing other planes in flight. It will be difficult to see other planes in flight as this new camera only has a 22 degree field of view. Another problem with the cam is that it's droping frames so the audio will be out of sync. So max load test today was 665 grams with no noticeable instability detected. Update Nov 14 2012: I added one of the two video's I published today at the top of this article so as people might see it long before they read all the entries I made in the S3 logs. I actualy took 5 videos from 4 different camera positions. I took pointing back, sideways from the wing tip and side ways from the center, and two pointing forward from ontop the battery. The front pointing shots looked best to me so that's why I posted them. With the added cam on cirtain locations added a bit of instability but was able to fly with just some added care. the cam on the wing tip wss probly the worst making it scarry to try to fly very slow as the left wing with the cam would stall and drop first. so when the vid tranmiter is added I should add a counter weight or maybe mount the battery that powers it on the oposite side of the wing. From looking at the video's looking at the elivons I can't see any fluter seen at even the fastest powered dive. So I guess that's not a problem with this version of my planes. I also met Nick today with his quad FPV. he tells me he has some fatshark googgles on order that should arive in about 7 more days. So I plan to postpone my purchase of the fatshark gear that was planed for this aircraft until I see how his works first. I'll add the other video I published here today. it's not that good but it displays the S3 doing some arobatics and also slow flight. Also seen in this video is Nick behind me as I fly the S3 when I did a fly by.
From mini wing S3

How to build one of scotty's surething wings

I've provided dxf drawings and parts list and airfoil template images for some of my wing designs as can be seen for example the S3 wing set seen here but some people have been asking me questions on how to build them. So I plan to collected some links and other material that I found that use the same or similar methods that I use in the construction of my wings. To start this is how I cut my wings out of a block of a 2 inch by 2 feet by 4 feet block of epp foam with a hot wire. With a hot wire guided with a positive template I cut out each wing side panel to give you an idea here's a simulation of what I do: I first make a template from the airfoil that is in my list of drawings for example the tl54_15.jpg file that I print out on a printer to the scale desired for the template and I stick it onto a 4mm sheet of fiber board that I then cut out with a jig saw or hand coping saw and sand edges smooth. Here's a video of a guy that makes templates similar as I do to give you more details on template making: The other side of the hot wire is tied to a fixed point. I use a door jam to tie my hotwire end to. I use a bamboo pole in a door jam to distribute the load and I hang the bamboo pool on the door nob to hold the altitude where I want it that is level with the table that I'm cutting on. see bellow video example of a cut: After the wing is cut you will have to sand it and cut off the trailing edge and wing tip and cord to the specifications shown in the dwg drawings. After wings are fully cut to shape it's time to sheet them with tape. I first spray the foam wings with 3m77 spray glue to help the tape stick better. I couldn't find a video with someone sheeting a cut wing but this video does have information you can use on how to sheet wings. note the overlap of the tape you should start taping from the rear of the wing to the leading edge. see example video bellow: After the wing is sheeted with tape you can cut out some elivons from the 5mm thick balsa to the shape that is provided in the drawings. you should sand the trailing edge a bit sharp to about 2mm and sand the front side that will connect to the wing at a 45 degree angle to provide a piviot on the top side of the wing. Make sure you make a right and lift hand elivon as they are mirror images not identical. Then attach the elivons with tape hinges as seen in the example video bellow: with the method above he makes both sides of the hinge 45 degrees I normaly only put the 45 degree cut on the elivon side only. I also sand instead of cut the 45 degree angle into the elivon as in our case we are using balsa not foam. I also use wider tape the same as I used to sheet that is 2 inches wide not the filiment tape that he uses, not that it's better or worse, it's just what I happen to have already and it works too. Now that the wings are sheeted and have elivons installed you can go ahead and connect the two wing halves together. You could have hooked the wing halves together before the elivon hinging if you prefer. for this we cut slots with a razor the depth of the bamboo spars in the locations shown in the drawings. If you have carbon fiber tubes instead of bamboo then what I do is mark my wing with a pen with the location of the spars and then I melt a slot with my soldering iron. The melted foam makes for a stronger surface to glue carbon fiber spars with slow dry 30 minit two part expoxy. then glue them in with the two wing halves flush together on a flat table (no dihedrel). in the case of bamboo I didn't even bother to glue them in. Just the tape I add after the spar is installed to hold it in place as the bamboo is a tight fit into the foam already. But I'm sure epoxy glue in the case of bamboo would probly be even better. But if your poor like me you can do without it. tape cross wise across the joint of the two wings with filiment tape if you have it and add some cross tape on the bottom with filiment if you want to beef up the wing for more load baring. Also if carbon fiber tubes are used instead of bamboo as shown in the drawings then use 3mm tubes on the leading edge tubes and 6mm tubes for the two cross wing joint spars. I normally put both the tubes on the bottom of the wing but it might be better to put the leading edge spars on the top of the wing as I did with the bamboo spars. This I think is better since the top will be in compresion in a high G turn and the bottom will need more stencel strength that we can get from the tape (filiment tape if you want a stronger wing). But it will work on ether side not criticle choice. after glued in place put tape over the top of each of the spars. Then it's time to cut out the wing tips and battery mount board out of the 2mm coroplast as seen on the drawings. cut the holes and slots in the coroplast with a hot soldering iron. add the velcro straps into the slots to hold the batteries in place and mount the motor with it's 90 mount and base screewed together. the motor mount is then straped onto the coroplast sheet with 3 nylon tie straps. The wing tips are installed by melting holes in the coroplast triangular wingtips and at the wing tip about 1 cm in from the tip of the wing. line up the holes at about 30% in on the wing on the front and back. Install the servo's and control rods as located on the drawings. you can melt the hole for the servo or cut it out with a razor. I just tape the servo's in place but you can add glue expoxy or hotmelt to better hold them in place. to setup corse trim I set the elivons to be flush with the bottom of the wing. When motor and batteries are installed make sure that the CG is within 1cm from the rear cross spar. there are some other methods of embeding the batteres and motor that I will show you at a later date. A very good example of how I make my wings can be seen at the geek show as seen here: and it continues here: I didn't have the problem they had with glueing the two foam sheet parts together as I use a thicker block of 2" foam to start that is thick enuf for my wing templet. also I don't use nicrome wire I just use thin 22 gage steel wire and I just put an aligator clip to put the power across the wire as close to were the wing foam starts as posible. Also for my power supply I use just a 12vdc 5amp battery charger transformer. But one thing I did learn from the geek method above is that we could make even bigger wings of say 3" or 4" thick airfoils by using two blocks to start. As the 2" foam is the thickest I can find here in Pattaya. The last part of the geek series to a successful flight can be seen here: As I get more feed back and questions I'll add to my instruction details above. I would like to thank the people who created the videos in this collection as you may have noted they aren't me. It's just a collection that I found on the Internet. Thanks for reading it and enjoy. By Scott Carlson

Bicycle RC wing transport method

My wings are now getting up in size to a point that I thought it would be no longer possible to transport on my bicycle. But I thought I saw someplace were people carry there surfboards on bicycles so why not do the same with my wings? So I did a quick google and I found this link that just might be perfect and looks like this: I had originally thought I would make a trailer but this side mounting system might work at least up to my M2 wing size. It might even work up to the BW1 wing size. So here's another project that I will document how it goes here. I also considered the rear racks but I think that would interfere with my saddle bags that I will still need at least one to carry my other gear of radio and batteries and other goodies. Has anyone ever seen something like this used to transport wings? Well I went and got most the parts to try one anyway. The total of the parts from my local Pattaya klong hardware store was 340 baht (about $11 USD). they were just short on the pipe insulation but I was thinking I would make custom foam pads that would fit the planes wing shape with leftover foam cut out of the original wing core to better distribute the load and cost me nothing. Update Dec 5, 2012 4:51pm: I completed the new PVC wing bicycle rack and have it installed and have test rode it unloaded on the streets. First test seems ok as it takes a bit of getting used to riding with it. First problem is there just happened to be a parade starting at the beach just as I was out testing the rack for the first time so there was a big trafic jam. Bad time to be testing something like this for the first time. But even with the problems the short two block test passed. It's now ready for a low load test with the S3 wing as it's first victum. I've already setup fit foam protective blocks to protect it in the rack. I'll have to test that tomaro as it's already getting dark. Update Dec 7, 2012 11:40am: yestarday we did the first trail of the new wing rack transporting the M2 wing to the stadium field and back. The main problems were only due to the lack of glue in some joints as I thought I would need to make some adjustments. Trail distance was 24km total. Today I will finalize all the joints with glue and give it another run to the stadium field with the M2. I might even try it with two wings the M2 and S3 at the same time if possible. Update Dec 7, 2012 4:31pm: I made a modification to widen the wing tray to allow it to carry two wings, the M2 and S3 at the same time. I had to purchase 4 more 90 degree angle pvc that were about 17 baht each. it's now glued together accept for the 4 joints at the bike T joint pipes on front and rear. I plan to put pins into these joints to be able to disasemble it and remove it from the bike quickly. It also provides a method to prepack the wings planed for a day and just snap them onto the bike when it's time to go. It also provides an easy way to move the wing pairs from my apartment into and out of the elevator. It was too late by the time I completed this project so I didn't get a chance to fly today. I'll just make it an early fly day tomaro.

Sunday, December 22, 2013

How to get your Turnigy or Flysky 9X RC radio to work as a joystick in Ubuntu

To get a joystick interface to work with a TH9X or any 9X r/c remote transmitter as seen here: to work with a ppm2usb adapter was more of a task than I expected. In the end I finally got the Flightgear program running on my Ubuntu 10.04 system using my TH9X radio hooked in with a cheap $4 PPM2USB adapter I got from In this case I used this one The first problem I had was to get the joystick to read at all. To test and calibrate my joystick I first installed with apt-get install jstest-gtk , that is a GUI to see joystick activity and to calibrate them. From jstest-gtk it would seem there was no activity from any movement on my TH9X radio when plugged in. To verify that Ubuntu detected my joystick adapter I tried from the command line $lsusb and I could see a new device appear seen as Bus 002 Device 011: ID 0401:0401 National Registry, Inc. when I plugged my joystick adapter in. I could also see from a dmesg command this: [565386.876209] input: Љ PPM########### as /devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:02.0/usb2/2-3/2-3:1.0/input/input14 [565386.876638] generic-usb 0003:0401:0401.000B: input,hidraw3: USB HID v1.00 Joystick [Љ PPM###########] on usb-0000:00:02.0-3/input0 ; That shows that it was also recognized by my Ubuntu kernel and was bound to a driver when the usb adapter was plugged in. So why wasn't I getting any action from the movement of my joysticks on my TH9X radio? I searched the Internet for an answer and came across something in a blog stating there was a problem in some of the 9X radios that the PPM output signal was too low for some devices unless you unplugged the TX module from the back of the radio. So I gave that a try and finally the magic started. I could see a small amount of action in jstest-gtk when I moved any of my 4 sticks on the radio. I looked at the raw data seen coming out with the command line jstest /dev/input/js0 and saw that the stick movement would put out from about 62 – 141 with full movement of any of the sticks and it centered around 100. So with this info I plugged the values into the calibration page of jstest-gtk as seen here: . With these values plugged in I now could see full movement of the graphs in jstest-gtk move. So now it was time to see what flightgear would do with it. I started the flightgear application and selected the /dev/input/js0 as my input device. With the “P” command in flightgear I could see the movements of each the joystick positions move as expected but the throttle was reversed and the elevator throttle sticks action was wrong. I had to put the throttle full down to be full up on flightgear. So I exited the flightgear application and again ran jstest-gtk. In jstest-gtk calibration page there is an invert box at the right of each stick that I activated on the second from the top that was the active throttle on my joystick. I again brought up the flightgear application and found that fixed my throttle problem. Oh but also my throttle stick and elevator sticks action were also reversed. Note I might be able to correct this in the TH9X with some transmitter setting adjustments but I just had the TH9X setup in a standard airplane mode and chose to find the solution on the computer side. This took a bit more research but I found a hack to get it to at least work for me. I had to modify the file at: /usr/share/games/FlightGear/Input/Joysticks/Default/joystick.xml with these values:  I reversed the values with  <axis n="1">  and <axis n="2"> to be reversed in sequence from the original default values to swap the controls of the throttle and elevator actions on my TH9X radio. With these changes I again started flightgear and now I can fly the Cessna 172 from my TH9x radio. The last parts to learn was how to activate the ignition with the '}{' keys and to start the motor after ignition was active with the 'S' key on my keyboard. With my first flight I did find I had to do some trim adjustments on my radio to get the aircraft to fly at trim when I took my fingers off the sticks. In fact one was so far out that I again had to make a small change in the calibration settings in jstest-gtk to put it within the range of my TH9X radio trim adjustments. OK finally a fully working Cessna plane. I later learned With the 'Vv' keys I could changed the view perspective to fly from the tower or other positions. After I finally got all the values figured out on my joystick I later found that it didn't save the values after I reboot my system. So I had to do one more thing to save the calibration values I did this command: jscal -p /dev/input/js0 . This would output the needed command that will set the calibration values that are presently detected in my case it created this: jscal -s 5,1,0,99,102,14509581,13765500,1,0,100,100,14127750,13094012,1,0,99,102,14509581,13765500,1,0,99,102,14509581,13765500,1,0,99,102,14509581,13765500 /dev/input/js0 . I added this to another or the same script to run at boot or just before I start the flightgear application. The next task is to get the helicopter mode to work. I've only just started working on this part. I was surprised it wasn't just a setting in the flightgear GUI to change it. Just to get the helicopter mode started I had to start the flightgear application with something like this: fgfs --aircraft=T38 . I just created a script file to start it in this way to simplify it a bit so I don't have to remember. I still haven't got the heli mode working fully yet as when I start up the blades to spin it ends up flipping the heli and crashing before I touch anything. So I guess there are some different trim adjustments for heli mode and maybe stick action might also have to change for it to work? I'll add to this article if and when I figure this part out or create another article just for heli mode if it becomes to complicated .